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Q: What do these error messages mean?
A: These are codes that refer to specific failures in The machines operation, by either mechanical or electrical sensors. In the machines Owners Manuals these documents give more information about what do you do when you get an error message on your machine.
Q: What causes birdnesting?
A: There are about three things that cause birdnesting: Unbalanced tension, flagging, or a problem with the hook assemebly.
For tension problems, check the thread path to insure the machine is threaded properly and then sew a tension test such as a 18mm capital "I" test.
For flagging, be sure the fabric is framed tightly. Also, make sure there is not a significant gap between the hoop assembly and the sewing arm.
If there is a problem with the hook assembly, either the hook positioning finger is mounted too close to the hook basket, or the hook basket does not allow the sewing hook to spin freely.
Q: I hit my hoop with the needle. Now what?
A: Many times, nothing other than a broken needle or bent presser foot results from hitting the hoop. If this happens, simply replace the needle, and straighten out the presser foot and continue. If sewing problems continue after this, more serious damage such as a broken needle bar driver may have occurred
Q: My machine is not detecting thread breaks, what do I do?
A: There are 2 types of thread break detectors used on machines.
Older machines use the Check Spring.
Newer machines use a Rotary Thread Break Wheel for each needle.
And some machines use a combination of both.
If you're unsure of what type of thread break detection your machine has, please contact technical service.
Check Spring troubleshooting:
If the check spring is sitting against its post, then the machine assumes the thread is broken. If the machine consistently is not recognizing thread breaks on a particular needle, look at the check spring area. Be sure the spring can move freely. Clean the spring and the post to be sure it can make good electrical contact. You can also try loosening the check spring slightly. If the problem persists, or is occurring on more than one needle, you may have a different problem and need to contact technical service.
Rotary Wheel trouble shooting:
The top thread has to wrap around this wheel, and when the machine sews, it spins the wheel. The machine monitors whether this wheel is spinning while sewing. If the wheel is not spinning, it assumes the thread has broken. If you're getting false breaks, make sure the thread is wrapped around the wheel. If the thread gets too much slack in it, it can simply jump off the wheel and just needs re-wrapped. Thread tension can also be an issue. The tensioner above and below the wheel have to be balanced. You cannot have all the tension on the top tensioner and none on the bottom tensioner or vice versa. Re-adjust the tension if it's out of balance. If you have intermittent problems, you may try wrapping the thread twice around the wheel to increase friction to spin the wheel. If the problem persists, or is occurring on more than one needle, you may have a different problem and need to contact technical service.
Q: What causes thread breaks and frays?
A: While there is no single factor that can be identified that causes thread breaks, you can narrow down the root of the problem by following these trouble shooting tips.
If the thread is breaking on just one needle, first check to see if the machine is threaded properly. Try loosening the tension slightly.
Check the needle to be sure it is inserted properly. The needle eye should be facing straight forward. You may want to replace the needle with a new one.
Check the presser feet to be sure they or not nicked or burred, if one is, polish the guide with a mild abrasive cord like crocus cord until it is smooth.
Check to see if the needle goes through the center of the foot. Presser feet are pliable and can be easily bent back in place with pliers.
Follow the thread path to be sure there are no rough spots on any of the thread guides.
Look at the thread clamp pin. Is it out to allow the thread to pass through the clamp for sewing?
Switch the needle to another position. Try to pull the problem needle down manually.
The needle should pull down easily and snap up quickly. If it does not, try cleaning and oiling the needle bar with a cotton swab.
If thread breakage continues, check the thread quality, try swapping cones of thread to a different needle that is working properly.
If the sewing problem is common to all needles, you need to look at conditions shared by all the needles such as the bobbin.
Is the bobbin threaded correctly? Is it tensioned properly?
Are there any rough spots on the bobbin case?
Look at the throat plate. Does it have any rough spots in or around the needle hole?
Is the needle centered in the needle hole?
Check the hook assembly. Rub the outer casing to feel for any burrs or nicks.
Q: My machine is skipping stitches or not picking up bobbin. Is the hook timing off?
A: Not necessarily. Hook timing is one of the last things to check when encountering a stitching problem. Other possibilities would be:
improper threading
the bobbin is low or has run out
a lack of oil on either the sewing hook or the needle bars
Q: How often should I change my needle?
A: There is no set schedule for changing needles. Applications for embroidery machines are very broad, making set time schedules for needle changing difficult. Also, sewing speeds on embroidery machines are relatively low compared to other sewing machines, reducing the need for routine changing. The best indication of when to change the needle is when its performance begins to fall off. A good rule of thumb - if a particular needle breaks threads more than once during a run, replace the needles.
Q: How do I tell if my tension is correct?
A: For machines with 9 needles or less:
There are three tensioners for the top thread:
The upper, center, and the lower (or rotary) tensioner.
Most adjustments are done with the upper and/or center tensioners. The general rule is; what you do to the upper, you should do to the center, as you want a balance between the two. Typically the lower tensioner is not used except for very fine adjustments. The tension wheel on this tensioner should always spin during sewing.
To tighten your tension (when the stitching on top looks "loopy" or very loose) turn the tension knobs clockwise. To loosen (when the thread is puckering the fabric or the bobbin thread is being pulled to the top side) turn the tensioner counter clockwise.
For machines with 15 needles:
There are two tensioners for the top thread:
The upper, and the lower (or rotary) tensioner.
Typically the lower tensioner is not used except for very minor adjustments. This leaves your upper tensioner as the primary point of adjustment.
To tighten your tension (when the stitching on top looks "loopy" or very loose) turn the tension knobs clockwise. To loosen (when the thread is puckering the fabric or the bobbin thread is being pulled to the top side) turn the tensioner counter clockwise.
Q: How do I adjust my tension?
A: For machines with 9 needles or less:
There are three tensioners for the top thread:
The upper, center, and the lower (or rotary) tensioner.
Most adjustments are done with the upper and/or center tensioners. The general rule is; what you do to the upper, you should do to the center, as you want a balance between the two. Typically the lower tensioner is not used except for very fine adjustments. The tension wheel on this tensioner should always spin during sewing.
To tighten your tension (when the stitching on top looks "loopy" or very loose) turn the tension knobs clockwise. To loosen (when the thread is puckering the fabric or the bobbin thread is being pulled to the top side) turn the tensioner counter clockwise.
Q: What do I do when the bobbin showing on the bottom is not centered?
A: This is usually caused when the sewing head's positioning finger is not centered with the sewing hook. To correct, remove the throat plate, loosen the screw holding the positioning finger, and reposition the positioning finger left or right, depending on which way the bobbin is off. Ideally, the position finger should be centered with the needle.
Q: What is the best needle to use?
A: In terms of needle size, this varies depending on the fabric and design. A good generic size needle would be a size 75/11 ball point.
When more delicate fabrics or more intricate designs are being sewn, a 70/10 needle should be used.
There are three types of needle points used for embroidery: normal point, ball point and sharp (or wedge) point.
Normal point needles are used on woven materials such as canvas, towels, and caps. Ball points are used on knit goods and delicate fabrics, such as knit shirts, socks and silk, to prevent runs or cutting of the fabric.
As far as brands of needles, be sure to use a good quality needle with a polished eye. Some manufacturers use a chemical process to remove burrs and to smooth the needle eye, but sometimes leave the harder, smaller burrs. The sewing thread passes through the eye of the needle up to 40 times before being laid down on the fabric. Any rough spot in the needle could have a dramatic effect on sewing performance. Most German brand needles have polished eyes
Q: What is the best thread to use on my machine?
A: It is important to use a good quality thread. Poor quality thread will cause thread breaks and tension problems on your machine. What you may save in the cost of a cone of inexpensive thread can easily be lost due to machine stoppage.
There are generally two types of thread used in embroidery today: rayon and polyester.
Rayon thread is easy to tension, very shiny and generally runs well on the machine. It is not as strong as polyester, and care must be taken when laundering to prevent the colors from bleeding. It is probably the most common type of thread.
Polyester thread traditionally was difficult to embroider with, however today's polyesters are as easy to sew as rayon and have other benefits. Polyester is strong meaning less thread breaks, and color fast, meaning it won't fade or bleed.
How much bobbin should be showing on the back of the fabric?
There should be a ratio of approximately 2/3rds top thread to 1/3rd bobbin thread. This a general guideline, not an absolute law. The most important guide is the top side of the fabric. If it looks good, the tension is most likely fine
How can I tell when my bobbin tension needs to be adjusted?
Sew out an 18 millimeter capital "I" character or use the sew test disk that is supplied with your machine. For accuracy, sew out the test on samples of the material that you will be embroidering. The sew test will also help determine whether there is a bobbin tensioning problem versus a top tensioning problem. If the bobbin thread is consistently too wide or too narrow on all the needles, there is a bobbin tension problem.
Q: How do I adjust the check spring?
A: To adjust the check spring, use a slotted screwdriver (flathead screwdriver). Put the screwdriver into the end of the lower (or rotary) tension post. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the check spring moves off its post. Then, turn the post clockwise until the check spring touches the post, then approximately 1/4 turn more.
What regular maintenance should I do to my machine?
The main maintenance required on your machine is regular lubrication. Keeping your machine clean and lint free is also a very important maintenance issue. Beyond this there is no other regular maintenance required for your machine.
How do I oil my machine and how often do I oil my machine?
Your machine has several oiling points that require lubrication at different frequencies. The oiling chart included in the manual of your machine gives detailed frequency of machine oiling.
Oiling and lubrication charts are available online for certain machines.
Q: How much oil do I put in the red holes?
A: Two to three drops of clear sewing machine oil.
Q: How often should I oil my sewing hook?
A: One small drop of clear sewing machine oil should be placed on the hook raceway every 4-8 hours of use. To achieve this, you may want to use a cotton swab dipped in oil to avoid over oiling.
Q: How do I figure out what model my machine is?
A: There is a "NAME PLATE" on every machine, which lists the model name, serial number, and power specifications. On single heads, it is located just underneath the table top fastened to the metal frame. Or on some machines it many be on the back right hand side . On Brother machines it is often located on the left hand side or the sewing head in the back underneath the thread rack. On multi-headed machines, it is located on the metal frame near the center of the machine, on the upper Beam or on the back right hand side of the machine.
Q: Should I shut the main breaker on the machine off at night?
A: It is recommended that you shut your machine off at the breaker if it is not going to be in use for an extended period of time to protect it from extreme electrical influences such as lightning.
Q: How can I tell when my machine was built?
A: On the name plate there is a serial number. Most Manufactures put these details in the serial number of the machine. Either the last two digits or may be a letter.
Q: What type of needles does my machine use?
A: If the needle in your machine has a flat side on the shank then it is a home machine needle. If the shank is completely round then your machine uses a commercial needle.
Q: What size bobbin does my machine use?
A: An "L" size embroidery bobbin is almost the size of a nickel. An "M" size embroidery bobbin is close to the size of a quarter.
Q: How much thread will I need?
A: To determine the quantity of thread necessary for a design, you first must know the breakdown of the number of stitches by color. Once you have the breakdown, multiple the number of stitches for a color by the number of garments to be embroidered. Then divide the result by the number of embroidery heads that will be running the application. This will give you the number of stitches that will be required by each embroidery head. One 5,500 yard cone will yield approximately 1,000,000 stitches, while a 1,100 yard spool will yield approximately 200,000 stitches.
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